September 15, 2012

accidental s'mores

If my blog had a "mistakes" category, this would go there.

So I wanted to make rice krispies. But I didn't have any rice krispies. I had cornflakes. So I thought it would be a good idea to substitute, except it wasn't. Because the cornflakes got soggy in the marshmallow mixture I made.

Maybe it would have been better if I had upped the cornflake to marshmallow ratio. But anyway, I ended up with a pan of marshmallow that tasted like it had wet cardboard bits in it.

But I didn't want to throw it in the trashcan. After all, I had used my last gelatin sheets making the marshmallows, and I wanted to serve it at my birthday board game night. So then I thought about hiding the marshmallows, in a sandwich, like with graham crackers.

The graham crackers really distracted from the soggy cornflake bits. But just for good measure, I crushed and toasted some smoked almonds and coated the remaining marshmallow sides. The almonds stuck really well to the marshmallow, and provided further distraction with their salty smoky crunch.

s'mores remake

At the party I melted some chocolate chips with some vegetable oil in the microwave, so the marshmallow sandwiches were could be dipped and eaten. And it was kind of like a s'more, if you think about it. But next time I will omit the cornflakes for sure.

birthday biscuits

In honor of my birthday, Cris and I cooked together like old times. It started out with leftover biscuit dough. And the green beans/mushrooms/onion I'd purchased at a little store down the street.

We needed something to tie everything together. I thought about sliced turkey, my preferred deli meat. And then it came together - gravy, cranberry sauce. Champagne too, since we were celebrating. Did you know that organic Korbel tastes different/better than the conventional kind?

birthday biscuits

The biscuits he baked, the green beans I sauteed. The gravy was made from defrosted chicken stock, cooked with mirepoix and thickened with roux. Cranberry sauce was from a can! And thinned with some gravy. And there was sliced deli turkey. It doesn't have to be complicated (or even made from scratch) to be good!

birthday biscuit dinner

September 10, 2012

sous vide: fennel (and banana!)

After proteins we switched to cooking vegetables and fruits. My group did fennel, artichoke, strawberries and bananas.

For fennel, I cut the bulb into sections and vacuum packed them with some herbs/seasonings: tarragon, thyme, bay leaf, star anise, caraway seeds.

herbs for fennel

The herbs were wrapped in plastic before being vacuum-packed, otherwise they would flavor the fennel too strongly. The package was cooked at 185F for 40 minutes.

fennel, vacuum-packed

After the fennel was cooked, I seared it with some butter, salt and pepper. It still tasted bland so I squeezed some lemon juice on it and sprinkled some cayenne pepper and then it tasted amazing. I could barely get a picture before all of the fennel disappeared.

seared fennel

After that we did bananas, and I cooked the caramel because I want to keep getting better at pastry things such as caramel. This was sugar and glucose syrup, with the addition of lemon and orange zest after the heat was turned off.

caramel for bananas

The zests were picked out before the caramel was added to the bananas. It was funny, the zests became like candied lemon and orange, tasty but a little bitter. Also funny was that the caramel cooled and hardened after they were poured on the bananas, and I was actually able to slide the banana logs out from the caramel, resulting in the caramel being one hard mass full of banana log-shaped curves. I guess this is the beginning to making caramel sculpture pieces...?

caramel & bananas

The caramel-covered bananas were cooked at 149F for 20 minutes. When they came out they were really soft, and the caramel had liquified. I think the next step would be to soak them in alcohol and set them on fire, or to cover them in sugar and brulee them. We just ate them.

sous vide bananas

food & fitness: quickbreads

Besides Sous Vide Cooking (and later on in the semester, Modern Sauces), the other cooking-related class I'm taking is called Food & Fitness. I was hoping to learn more about culinary nutrition than I did in the required nutrition class (that turned out much more science-y than I'd hoped). And so far, I have learned a lot about healthful cooking and what not to eat.

Sadly, I'm not big on avoidance. I'd rather eat less and exercise more than keep a list of what I shouldn't be eating and filter all of my available food options through that no-no list. Because that method requires more work/thinking, and because I believe that it also wears down your available willpower, which could be used to do other things.

Anyway! We alternate between lecture classes and lab classes. Our first lab class involved baked goods, mostly muffins/quickbreads. And the fat in those baked goods were substituted with applesauce and prune puree, which works to some degree because those ingredients provide moisture, which is a big part of what fat does for baked goods.

prune puree in batter

Our group of seven (almost all non-culinary students) tackled prune buttermilk bread and raisin bran muffins. The prune buttermilk bread used some margarine but also chopped prunes. The raisin bran muffins used a tiny amount of oil but also applesauce.

raisin bran muffins & prune buttermilk bread

Another group did banana pecan muffins, which had also a tiny amount of oil but prune puree and nonfat yogurt.

banana pecan muffins

Another group did lowfat fudgy brownies, which only had prune puree.

low-fat fudgy brownies

Everything tasted okay in terms of moistness and sweetness, but the missing fat took away from the savoriness. The substitutions are interesting to me, not because I want to be more healthy, but because it's always interesting to know what different ingredients do for a particular product. I tend to substitute greek yogurt for sour cream, because I think the tastes are similar enough (for a baked good or for a dip), but also because I'm more likely to buy greek yogurt because I can eat it with fruit and honey. I think applesauce and prune puree are ingredients I would add in addition to fat instead of to replace fat. It reminds me of the carrot cake I once made with canned pineapples - the carrot cake came out so moist because of that addition.

I think the star of the session was the apricot blackberry cornmeal kuchen, which had an interesting textural grittiness because of the cornmeal. It was almost like gritty cornbread but very airy, and the apricot & blackberries were delicious. I've never thought of those two fruits as a combination, but I'm definitely going to use it from now on.

apricot blackberry cornmeal kuchen

sous vide: egg

After steak and salmon, the next protein we tackled was eggs. This is where I think the sous vide machine really shines because eggs are even easier to overcook than meat and seafood. I mean, if you're trying to do a batch of soft-boiled eggs, forget about it, the sous vide machine is the way to go.

eggs sous vide

For soft-boiled eggs, 150F for 30 minutes.

While the eggs were cooking, we each got to work cooking the rest of the brunch dish that the egg was going to top. Namely, bacon (or lardo)-wrapped asparagus, frisee salad and shallot vinaigrette.

I chose bacon because of the higher meat ratio and because it was better for wrapping. The asparagus was blanched, wrapped in half-cooked bacon, then fried some more with garlic and thyme.

bacon-wrapped asparagus

The frisee I tossed in shallot vinaigrette (shallot, olive oil, champagne vinegar, salt and pepper) and plated in a shallow bowl (to reflect the roundness of the soft-boiled egg).

shallot vinaigrette frisee

Besides placing the bacon-wrapped asparagus on top I also added some bits of compressed cantaloupe (vacuum-sealed so less watery and more flavor-intensive). The bacon made me think of proscuitto, which goes with melon.

asparagus & frisee

On top we had the option of shaved bottarga, which is cured fish roe but when shaved adds a savory/salty dimension, like what Parmesean cheese does. Of course then I added some shaved Parmesean as well. Once the soft-boiled egg went on top I sprinkled some smoked paprika on too.

brunch dish

Soft-boiled eggs are hard to plate. Mine slid halfway off the mound of frisee, so in retrospect I should have made a bigger hole for it to sit in. This is a very rich dish, not what I would normally eat, but delicious with an extra helping of shallot vinaigrette to cut through all the richness. Very good for brunch.