October 15, 2011

pasta station

Maybe I've been making pasta all my life, or maybe there were less tasks to keep track of, but pasta station was pretty simple. Make spaghetti, reheat marinara and bolognese sauces, and put together a pasta special.

pasta service

In the time that I was on pasta station, a two-person station, I made up two pasta specials. One was penne with italian sausage, caramelized onions, corn and spinach in a light tomato sauce (as seen above). The other was penne with bacon, bacon-greased onions, peas and cherry tomatoes in a bechamel sauce. (Yes, I like penne a lot.)

With the amount of volume we were doing, the ingredients had to be pretty simple. The bacon basically cooked itself over heat, the onions were sauteed in the same pan the bacon was done in, the peas were from a box (freshly thawed!) and the cherry tomatoes came straight out of the basket.

Mise-en-place was to be expected, knowing me and my organized-ness, but it made things a lot easier since the pasta server out on the cafeteria would sometimes be giving us a minute's notice before another full hotel pan was expected to be out. So I would blanch some cooked pasta (by lowering a colander full of it into a steam kettle like the one I made soup in), go down the line and toss stuff in, then add sauce and mix.

pasta special mise-en-place

For the pasta special to sell well, Chef Hammerich reinforced that it needed to be very well-sauced and super colorful. Hence the cherry tomatoes on what would've simply been bacon, peas and cream sauce.

pasta special

I discovered belatedly that though the special was well-sauced, it wasn't well-salted. But it sold well! :X

October 1, 2011

dicing tomatoes

Another fixture of prepping for Latin Quarter was making salsa fresca.

salsa fresca mixed

I don't know how many portions that was, but 40 tomatoes went into it.

salsa fresca ingredients

And by 40 tomatoes, I mean 40 tomatoes small-diced by hand. But you know, that's in addition to those 6 onions, 6 bunches of cilantro, 4 bunches of scallions, and 12 jalapeños all small-diced. Repetitive motion injury aside, this meant a lot of time meditating on how tomatoes could be diced better/faster.

So the one thing I hate about cutting tomatoes is that usually the skin is so tractionless that the knife experiences resistance trying to cut. So I wanted a dicing method that would sidestep cutting into skin. Several experimental methods later, I settled on this one.

dicing tomatoes 1

First cut the sides of the tomato off so the tomato is one block (this is good practice for cutting cube-shapes out of any cylindrical-shapes, like a carrot for example).

dicing tomatoes 2

Cut the block into slices (vertical cut) and then cubes (horizontal cut).

dicing tomatoes 3

Take the tomato sides/ends and slice, then dice those.

And there you have it, the dicing tomato method that is almost all flesh and no skin. Now salsa fresca your way to happiness!

mass production

It happened pretty fast, a third of the semester went by and it was time for us to rotate into Chef Hammerich's section, or the mass production every day section.

My first station was prepping for Latin Quarter, a culturally-themed cafeteria outlet run by third semester students. We made things like carne asada and queso and mexican rice, which was what I did the first day on station.

mexican rice

And there you have it, a gigantic rondo (round pot/pan) full of mexican rice. Not hard actually, just sweat onions/garlic in butter, dump rice grains in and mix till shiny, then add water & canned tomatoes, season, and cover + simmer until done.

When I made mexican rice at home today I did a different take by using a rice cooker. I sauteed onions, mixed in fresh tomatoes, then some canned pasta sauce, then poured in the mixture into the cooker with rice and chicken stock (made by diluting "better than bouillon"). It came out pretty well.

I have to say though, after cooking massively quantities of things, home cooking begins to look like small peanuts. The stock pot I once thought was huge now looks like a bowl.

pasta sauce from scratch

(Said stock pot with homemade pasta sauce inside, roughly the one for this lasagna recipe.)

But really, I think that anyone who can cook at home can also cook massively. The processes are pretty much the same, it's mainly the equipment that's different (which makes it seem daunting). And the large quantities just mean that mise en place is ever more crucial, because at home you can afford to zip back and forth between the refrigerator and prep, but in an industrial kitchen? Fuhgeddaboudit!

entree station

Next was the daunting entree station, where I was alone with the work of producing 120 portions of something. Well, usually starch station (in charge of making the accompanying rice/pasta/potato/etc.) would help me out and we would partner up to do both things, but there was this one day where I roasted 120 portions of chicken by myself, and if it weren't for the fire alarm that disrupted everything, I wouldn't have gotten the chicken out in time for cafeteria lunch service. Sadly that was one of the days I forgot to bring my camera, so I don't have evidence of that catastrophe/accomplishment.

frying fish

Other things we did in entree station were, for example, frying 120 portions of fish (I did the flouring of the fish filets, which was fun - slap, flip and pat down, a rhythm you could get a groove into).

filet of sole with beurre meunière

What distinguishes a culinary school cafeteria from a regular one would be the little touches - for the fried fish, it was the beurre meunière Chef Ogden piped with a pastry bag - butter we flavored with parsley, lemon and black pepper. Sadly I don't think anybody but us got to see the piped rosettes - the butter melted soon after meeting the fish (a match made in heaven).

tamale pie

The one thing I super enjoyed in entree station was the making of tamale pie, otherwise known as tamale filling + cheese sandwiched between slabs of cornbread. The cornbread dough had to be hand-spread to cover the bottom and top of the hotel pan, and I don't know what it is, but working with dough just makes me happy.

tamale pie baked

It's a kind of respite from the hustle that is everything else.

soup station

My introduction to main kitchen work was with soup station. Even though my task was to make 120 portions of soup a day, I thought the work was easier than in the PCR setting, because having everything you're doing going into one big item is just so much less involved than assembling a dozen little small plates. In big cooking you don't have to sweat the small stuff.

minestrone soup ingredients

But like with anything you gotta mise stuff en place (French for "putting stuff in place"). That was the mise en place for minestrone soup, practically took up the entire work bench.

mirepoix

So you don't have to sweat the small stuff, but we sweated (heated/softened) 15-20 lbs of hand-diced mirepoix (the standard being 50% onions, 25% carrots, 25% celery, all diced). Besides bones and meat, this is the stuff that gives stock and soups flavor.

adding stock

Then we added chicken stock. Like 10 gallons of it. And two ham hocks, crucial for depth of flavor - that was the lip-smacking part about drinking this soup.

adding tomato product

After simmering for over half an hour we added cabbage and zucchini, and canned tomato + tomato paste. The tomato products give the soup more body and savoriness (or umami).

adding spinach

And right before the soup was done we added spinach, a super soft vegetable that would've wilted and lost color if we had put it in any earlier.

finished minestrone soup

And there you have it, a gigantic steam kettle full of minestrone soup!

(The other soups we made were chowders and black bean soup, not half as photogenic as minestrone soup so I won't even bother showing them.)

draining broth

Oh but we did make vegetable stock, something easy for everyone at home - just simmer mirepoix scraps (onion skin, carrot peels, celery ends) in water for half an hour and then strain the scraps out. The liquid you can pour into containers (or ice cube trays) and freeze. Then the next time you need some veggie stock or want to add some flavor to rice or pasta, just pop one out and throw it in.